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Les couleurs de Shanghai | Shanghai
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Les couleurs de Shanghai

2 janvier 2005

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Lorsqu’on évoque Shanghai, on l’associe immédiatement à la modernité, à la face occidentale de la Chine et ses multiples grattes-ciel. On en oublierai presque qu’il s’agit d’une ville chinoise, qui concentre à elle seule tous les contrastes de la Chine.

La marque vivace de l’empreinte chinoise de Shanghai, ce sont ses marchés. Pas de grandes places qui accueillent 1 jour ou 2 par semaine les étals de marchands itinérants. Non, non, ici si vous voulez passer faire votre marché, il faut d’abord le trouver, ou bien comme c’est le plus probable, tomber dessus par hasard !
En efftet, coincés entre 2 boulevards, les marchés sont souvent des enfilades de petites rues aux maisons basses. Mais une fois que vous l’avez trouvé, rien ne vous empêche d’en profiter tous les jours et à toute heure ou presque. Car ici les marchés sont fixes, les marchands vivent dans leur commerce, derrière les étals qui se succèdent le long des rues.

Ces rues justement nous donnent une toute autre vision de Shanghai que l’image stéréotypée qu’on peut en avoir. On est bien loin des tours aseptisées et des architectures ahurissantes. Ici les cordes à linge remplacent les néons, pas d’agent de la circulation aux carrefours mais des tas de détritus odorants, et donc bien regarder avant de traverser pour éviter de se faire renverser par les vélos imprudents. De temps en temps au bout d’une rue on aperçoit les buildings qui nous rappellent comme des garde-fous que la ville n’est pas bien loin.

Mais moi je préfère m’y perdre dans ces marchés. Ces étals aux odeurs poignantes, tantôt délicieuses tantôt écoeurantes, ces couleurs tranchées, l’étal rouge de la bouchère, le vert du marchand de légumes, le marron du marchand de graines, la fumée qui se dégage des baozi tout chaud, les visages concentrés des commerçants à la tâche.

C’est un endroit qui vit d’une toute autre énergie que celle de l’avenue Nanjing Lu. Une foule incessante de chinois à vélo au milieu des rues, qui s’arrêtent de temps à autre devant l’un des étals, la lampe qui tourne sans fin au-dessus de l’étal du boucher et qui éclaire d’une lumière chaude la viande fraîchement coupée et présentée sur une simple table de bois à la portée de tous. Ne pas trop penser à l’hygiène non plus en passant devant les cuvettes de poisson tout frétillants déposées sur le sol. De toute façon on n’est pas là pour acheter à manger, on vient pour faire partie du grouillement, pour sentir cette atmosphère qu’on cherchait en venant ici, la Chine quoi…

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Un commentaire pour “Les couleurs de Shanghai”

  1. Commentaire par kato :

    J’adore ton blog… surtout que je vais bientôt débarquer aussi…. ca me permets de mieux connaitre mon futur unives… continue comme ça

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